[LVMH Watches & Jewelry Japan Co., Ltd. Zenith Division] Zenith celebrates its 160th anniversary by reviving its legendary movements with a new collection “G.F.J.”
LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Co., Ltd. Zenith Division Press release: April 1, 2025 Zenith celebrates its 160th anniversary by reviving legendary movements with new collection “G.F.J.”
https://prcdn.freetls.fastly.net/release_image/51670/74/51670-74-8b6f5909755303a85f3f36862404a9c3-3900×3900.jpg WhenGeorges Fabre-Jacot founded the Manufacture in 1865, his primary aim was to produce the finest, most accurate, and most reliable timepieces – the “perfect watch.” The pursuit of the perfect watch is also reflected in the brand name Zenith, which means the top of the sky. To celebrate its 160th anniversary and its journey to excellence in all areas of watchmaking, Zenith presents timeless classics with outstanding movements. “G.F.J.” was named after the initials of Georges Fabre-Jacot. This elegant, sophisticated and slender timepiece brings back the legendary Caliber 135, which won the most awards during the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. Zenith chronometry and the legendary caliber 135
https://prcdn.freetls.fastly.net/release_image/51670/74/51670-74-ba4a5eee450b426f926b7b230acafe35-1950×2758.jpg A few decades ago, the tests conducted by observatories were considered very important. Beyond the science of chronometry, the prestige these timekeeping competitions brought was great. The observatory was a place where skilled watchmakers could demonstrate and prove the high precision of their clocks. In pursuit of this honor, watch brands put their carefully prepared movements to the test. Zenith was one of the first to participate in the competition, starting in 1897. Its movements have won a record 2,333 chronometry awards, more than any other brand.
https://prcdn.freetls.fastly.net/release_image/51670/74/51670-74-2ba6c54f4a67e2a526a7b80ecbff1344-3766×2118.jpg Among them, the movement that stands out is the legendary Caliber 135. This chronometer was designed by Efrem Jobin at the request of Zenith’s technical director Charles Ziegler. The caliber was specially developed for the chronometry competitions held at the observatories of Neuchâtel, Geneva, Chiu-Teddington and Besancon. The name “135” comes from the caliber’s diameter of 13 lignes (equivalent to 30 mm, the maximum size allowed in the watch section of the Neuchâtel Observatory Competition) and its thickness of 5 mm. Caliber 135 was produced from 1949 to 1962 in two different versions: the commercial model (135) and the “O” version created for observatory chronometer testing (135-O). Caliber 135-O has won 235 chronometry awards and carved its name in the history of watchmaking with an impressive record. Charles Fleck and René Gigax of Zenith, renowned chronometer craftsmen, were in charge of the adjustments, and achieved the remarkable feat of winning first place in the watch category of the Neuchâtel Observatory for five consecutive years from 1950 to 1954. The legendary Caliber 135-O will be revived in 2022 in a special collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and auction house Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. The 10 vintage movements that won consecutive championships from 1950 to 1954 have been restored and decorated to the highest standards by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. This rare limited edition model is sure to delight discerning collectors. An icon that will never fade over time. Zenith is happy to share its rich heritage.
https://prcdn.freetls.fastly.net/release_image/51670/74/51670-74-fdf29f8fb1d553f671535dd2302920c9-1788×2236.jpg Now, with Zenith’s new initiative, Caliber 135 is brought back into the 21st century. The new version of the movement follows the size, appearance and structure of the original, but features an offset center wheel to make room for the large balance wheel, improving precision and stability. However, it is more than just a recreation of a historic caliber; it has been modernized and redesigned using the latest technology and materials wherever possible. The barrel now offers a 72-hour power reserve, compared to the 40-hour power reserve of the 1950s version. The new gear train has an optimized tooth geometry for increased efficiency, and the balance, which operates at 2.5Hz, has a control screw and a Breguet balance spring. The 135-O’s signature double-arrow speed regulating mechanism enables precise adjustment, and a second hand stop mechanism has been added that allows time to be set in seconds. The balance shaft is protected by a spring-loaded jewel. The movement is calibrated to within /-2 seconds per day and certified for accuracy by COSC. The understated yet sophisticated decoration reveals the distinguished history of Caliber 135. Each part has a precise finish. The “brick” guilloché finish on the bridges is inspired by the distinctive façade of the Zenith Manufacture, with its striking red and white brickwork and Georges Fabre-Jacot’s initials “G.F.J.”. The barrel has a circular satin finish, and the round wheel has a black polished finish. In addition, the presence of jewels adds a touch of quality to the movement. Perfection is in the details – the G.F.J.
https://prcdn.freetls.fastly.net/release_image/51670/74/51670-74-efa47268c34903f078b507baa9a1d3d4-3900×3900.jpg The founder’s ambition to create the perfect watch has been passed down to Zenith watchmakers for 160 years. Designed to pay homage to a unique heritage, the timepieces embody the Zenith ethos of perfection down to the last detail. True to the era in which Caliber 135 was born, the new G.F.J. captures the essence of the 1950s, effortlessly combining vintage elegance with modern accents. Slender and elegant, the 39mm round platinum case features a stepped bezel and curved lugs. Its low-profile silhouette and sculptural lines are gracefully complemented by a combination of brushed and polished finishes. The notched crown is engraved with the initials “G.F.J.” Inside the sapphire glass is a blue dial with “G.F.J.” Zenith’s signature color blue and star logo symbolize the brand’s deep connection to the sky and its relentless pursuit of precision. The three-part design creates an enchanting depth, while the finely crafted details exude
sophistication.
https://prcdn.freetls.fastly.net/release_image/51670/74/51670-74-2a76faac5e0352da88ffeff87425c0ff-2565×2700.jpg The ring surrounding the dial features a “brick” guilloché pattern and faceted white gold hour markers, set delicately by hand with 40 white gold beads as a minute track. The central part is made of deep blue lapis lazuli, and the pyrite contained in this stone gives it a golden sparkle that evokes a starry sky. Because the texture of each stone is unique, each dial is unique. The oversized subdial that counts the seconds at 6 o’clock is made from mother-of-pearl. The hours, minutes and seconds are indicated by slender white gold baton-shaped hands.
https://prcdn.freetls.fastly.net/release_image/51670/74/51670-74-40ce6f3caa85067fd7d6d5f17df558fd-3780×2127.jpg The Zenith G.F.J. comes with three straps: a dark blue alligator leather strap, a black calfskin strap, and a blue “saffiano” calfskin strap.The platinum pin buckle is engraved with the initials “G.F.J.” and a brick pattern. A seven-strand platinum bracelet with embossed brick pattern on the center links is also available as an option. “In the history of watchmaking, only a few movements have achieved the chronometric excellence and fame of the Caliber 135. Caliber 135 was not only a technical feat, but also became a true icon of precision. The revival of this caliber on the occasion of its 160th anniversary was In G.F.J., we aim to not simply recreate the past, but to convey the core of its heritage while reinterpreting it in a way that resonates with modern sensibilities.Zenith is truly proud of this.” Benoît de Craque, Zenith CEO Limited to 160 pieces, G.F.J. will be available by pre-order only at Zenith boutiques, online boutiques and authorized distributors worldwide. Three questions for Romain Marietta, Zenith Chief Product Officer • Why did Zenith bring back this legendary caliber, following the 2022 limited edition
collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Philips? To celebrateZenith’s 160th anniversary and to pay homage to the Maison’s rich heritage in watchmaking, we have decided to revive the legendary Caliber 135. The 2022 limited edition model developed with Kari Voutilainen and Philips has attracted attention from collectors and watch enthusiasts. This highlights the historical significance of this caliber for Zenith. In response to this enthusiasm, we wanted to not simply recreate this iconic movement from the past, but to reinterpret it in a way that resonates with modern sensibilities while aiming to convey the core of its heritage. • What improvements have been made to the new caliber? The new caliber has been carefully redesigned to suit modern needs, while remaining faithful to the spirit and characteristics of the original. Subtle but important improvements have been made to improve reliability, precision, and overall performance without sacrificing the original essence. The result is a seamless blend of the charm of historic roots and modern innovation. This makes it an attractive piece that will appeal to even the most discerning modern collector. • What concept is the design of “G.F.J.” based on? Be faithful to the original design, yet with a modern sophistication. We focused on finding the right balance. Inspired by the clean lines, balanced proportions and understated sophistication of the 1950s. Every detail has been carefully thought out, from the harmonious case design to the beautiful finishing of the dial and movement. The aim was to pay homage to the vision and legacy of Georges Fabre-Jacot, while creating something new that would appeal to vintage enthusiasts and modern collectors alike. In homage to the Manufacture’s iconic façade and Georges Fabre-Jacot’s grand dreams of consolidating manufacturing processes under one roof, which extended to the building of bricks to build an empire, the guilloché dial design features a unique brick pattern. This motif pays homage to his pioneering spirit. Three questions for Lawrence Bodenman, Head of Zenith Heritage • Zenith has a proud history of precision watchmaking and observatory competitions. How important were these competitions to watchmakers of the time? TheObservatory Competition was of great significance to watchmakers, as it was the ultimate test of movement precision and technical quality. More than just an honor, the competition was a marker of excellence. Our performance there has increased our brand’s reputation and credibility. Along with the watch fair, it was one of the two most important events of the year. In an era when the precision of mechanical watches was valued above all else, success in the Observatory Competition was a recognition of the watchmaker’s technical ability and a mark of excellence. As Zenith strives for accuracy and precision, participation in these competitions was a natural fit. Our record number of awards, 2,333, speaks for itself. Founder Georges Fabre-Jacot chose this path in order to prove that the manufacturing system he pioneered in the world of Swiss watchmaking could produce more reliable and perfect timepieces. This commitment over many years has enabled Zenith to drive innovation and solidify its position as a master of precision timepieces. • Where does Caliber 135 fit into Zenith’s long tradition of precision watchmaking? Caliber 135 occupies a special place in Zenith’s history and in the wider world of watchmaking. This caliber (135-O), developed for the Observatory Competition, won the most awards during the golden age of chronometry examinations. He achieved many outstanding results, and from 1950 to 1954 he achieved the remarkable feat of winning first place at the Neuchâtel Observatory for five consecutive years. What sets it apart from the rest is its oversized balance wheel. This creates greater inertia and a unique approach to the overall construction. This is why Caliber 135 is an icon in the world of watchmaking. • What influence did the 1950s era have on the design of Zenith’s chronometers at the time? The 1950s was a time of innovation and exploration of bold graphic expression. The designers’ bold challenges have resulted in a silhouette that is both innovative and timeless. This spirit is reflected in the vintage chronometer 135, which exudes elegance through a perfect balance of proportions and a precise high-level finish. The goal has always been to create something that will stand the test of time and be loved by people across generations. In 2025, Zenith will further evolve this concept, reinterpreting “timeless design” into a sophisticated, contemporary style for the next generation. G.F.J.
https://prcdn.freetls.fastly.net/release_image/51670/74/51670-74-f407bbf5c4a57824cafe1c7bf9610403-1890×2700.jpg Reference: 40.1865.0135/51.C200 Features:Reproduction of the legendary Caliber 135. Chronometer certified. Breguet balance spring. Second hand stop mechanism. Special edition to celebrate Zenith’s 160th anniversary: platinum case, lapis lazuli dial, special “brick” guilloché finish on the movement. Movement:Caliber 135, hand-wound Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz) Power reserve:Approx. 72 hours Function:Hour and minute hands in the center. Small seconds at 6 o’clock position. Finish: Special “brick” guilloche finish to commemorate 160th anniversary Price including tax: 6,952,000 yen Material:Platinum 950 Waterproof function: 5 ATM Case: 39.15mm / Thickness: 10.5mm / Top and bottom length including lugs: 45.75mm Dial:Blue “brick” guilloché on the outer ring, lapis lazuli in the center, small seconds counter in mother-of-pearl Hour markers:18K white gold typesetting indices Hands: 18K white gold, faceted cut Bracelets & Buckles:3 straps included: dark blue alligator leather strap with platinum pin buckle, black calfskin strap, and blue “saffiano” calfskin strap. Optional:Platinum bracelet with double folding buckle
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